David Clapp is a respected naturalist and teacher who worked extensively in land conservation and habitat management. David has taught at Northeastern University, lectured on strategies for land protection in the United States, Africa, Europe, and Asia, and consulted for an array of governmental and conservation agencies. He has led Smithsonian Journey adventures for about thirty years.  Especially through his involvement with ecotourism he has been able to train naturalists, provide natural history materials and work with conservation organizations worldwide. His lectures run the gamut from plate tectonics and the history of the world to flight and migration as it relates to sites being visited.  David is also an extremely gifted photographer. He is a popular study leader and our travelers consistently express their appreciation for his efforts and enthusiasm.

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Australia and the tropical coast were a welcome treat for Smithsonian travelers escaping from winter’s grasp in America this February. We snorkeled on the Great Barrier Reef and rode the old train up through the mountains to the rainforest town of Kuranda and walked the Esplanade on the edge of the town.

Both Sooty and Common Noddy Terns are on Michelmas Cay in abundance; often more than 20,000 birds join us out here on this Great Barrier Reef cay. Photo courtesy of David Clapp.

The gondola ride over the tropical rain forest has two stops along the way to provide opportunities to learn about this rare habitat. Photo courtesy of David Clapp.

The train from Cairns to Kuranda, a tropical forest ride. Photo courtesy of David Clapp.

The great Red Center of Australia was also hot and the views of the Olgas (Kata Tjuta) and the great Ayer’s Rock (Uluru) made each day and each outing quite wonderful. The sunset on Uluru was very nice and the morning views of Kata Tjuta were glorious.

Uluru, Ayer’s Rock, reddens as the sun sets. Photo courtesy of David Clapp.

The Opera House in Sydney is the location of innovation, a human soap opera, and the pride of Sydney-siders. The tour of the facility is always a highlight of the tour and the engineering feats and the stories of those involved in designing, planning, and building the opera house are touchingly human.

The Sydney opera House is lovely from any direction, but a water view is special. Photo courtesy of David Clapp.

New Zealand provided a green counterpoint to Australia’s browns. Mount was a cool destination in many ways. The change from the sunburnt plains of Australia to the glaciated and snow-covered mountains of New Zealand made for a mind-boggling day. The trip to Doubtful Sound, a fjord on the southwestern side of New Zealand’s South Island, was quite wonderful. We had bottle-nosed dolphins, southern fur seals, and Buller’s albatross providing a sense of wonder and remoteness as we traveled the inundated edges of the rocky glaciated canyons, now covered with hardy southern beech forests (Nothofagus).

Doubtful Sound is a grand fjord its rocky walls harbor forest of Nothofagus beech – offering the trees no soil! Photo courtesy of David Clapp.

Three Smithsonian travelers bungy jumped at A. J. Hackett’s famous bridge near Queenstown. We had airplane fliers, boat riders, bridge jumpers, gondola riders, and zip line aficionados as well!

Every now and then someone wants a bigger thrill, here an SJ traveler reaches for a closer view of the river below. Photo courtesy of David Clapp.

Our last group outing was through the Ruakuri Cave; an intricate, large, active cave with a remarkable entrance and internal walkway. The access is down a spiral staircase attached to the side of a large silo.  From the bottom you enter the cave system through an air lock that helps control the inflow of air and allows the cave to maintain its humidity and temperature. The entrance alone is worth the visit. A river still runs through the bottom of the cave, and was occasionally heard in the depths as we passed along the walkway.

Inside a limestone cave is not the place to take pictures, but this gives an idea of the features that water, time, and a bit of calcium carbonate can accomplish. Photo courtesy of David Clapp.

Another great meal was served to us in Auckland as we gathered for a final evening. This is the time when we look at pictures, remember, reminisce, and appreciate the trip as a whole. This Smithsonian journey down under is packed with adventure and excitement, and is a truly unforgettable experience.  See below for three more pictures highlighting our spectacular trip.

New Zealand’s North Island has many geothermal features. Photo courtesy of David Clapp.

The Pukeko, or Purple Swamphen, is a common birds of fields and golf courses on New Zealand’s North Island. Photo courtesy of David Clapp.

Dry river beds are normal in central Australia; a few Eucalyptus can survive by sending roots down to permanent water. Photo courtesy of David Clapp.

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To learn more about our Splendors of Australia and New Zealand trip click here

Grant Nel holds a degree in Zoology and has worked in the African wild for more than two decades. A highly respected professional guide and conservationist in the region, he is the former CEO of The Selinda Reserve and sits on the boards of two local environmental organizations.

Grant recently led a group of Smithsonian Journeys travelers on a safari adventure across four different countries.

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In the epic drama played in the theatre that is Africa, the elephant surely has the lead role.  This gentle giant with its lazy gait, quiet demeanour, inherent intelligence, and subdued power was certainly the central character for our Smithsonian safari where Act I was staged under the mist of Victoria Falls, Act II was played out across the floodplains of the Chobe River, and the Finale was encompassed by the giant amphitheatre of the Zambezi escarpment.  The supporting cast of lion, rhino, buffalo and leopard, along with all the extras (kudu, zebra, sable, giraffe et al) all performed admirably, but as always, the elephant stole the limelight. In no other place does this iconic animal give a better performance than in Botswana’s Chobe National Park. Home to one of the largest single populations of elephant in Africa, this reserve provided us with some captivating elephant viewing. There is a certain thrilling trepidation that floods the senses when one has their first close encounter with the world’s largest land mammal. For us there was no exception.

Photo courtesy of Grant Nel

The Opening Scene – Gamedrive:
Very soon after entering Chobe National Park, we are treated to a wildlife bonanza that fills the stage that is the Chobe floodplain; buffalo and elephant dot the landscape and we scarcely know where to point our binoculars. As we descend the Ochre Ridge towards the river, we notice a small herd of elephants following their own dusty trail to water; a trail created over many decades by many thousands of serving platter sized feet. The dry season is reaching its height and the Chobe River is the only place for many a mile where wildlife can quench the incessant thirst that is the trademark of the Kalahari wilderness. A small, maybe year old, baby elephant gambols alongside its mother and aunty. Still suckling, it is perhaps not yet aware how important this journey is; for now it remains a chance to frolic in the cool waters and splash mud about with gay abandon. Our vehicle reaches the banks of the river and we stop constantly to watch a parade of animals: warthogs are wallowing, a sable antelope weighs up the risk of stealing a quick drink, impala and baboons share a feast under a monkey orange tree and above us on the ridge, more and more elephants gather in anticipation of water.

Photo courtesy of Grant Nel

Scene II – The ‘Encounter’:

To our right we are watching a bevy of elephants slapping on mud with an enthusiasm that can only be described as pure joy. It has our undivided attention and amusement. A muted shuffling noise to the left interrupts the scene and we swing our heads around to see a small family of elephants heading down the river bank directly towards us. Their mission is to get to water and it appears that nothing will stop them. If it weren’t for the inquiring trunk tips pointed in our direction it would seem that they don’t know we exist. The herd splits and passes front and back of our 4×4 so close we can see every eyelash and the cracks on their toenails – exhilarating! One inquisitive young male is not so blasé and decides he wants a closer look at the vehicle occupants. He gets within trunk range and gives us “The Stare”. The chocolate brown eye that he surveys us with is intoxicating and there seems to be a message passing from one intelligent being to another – a silent one, because a pin dropping right now would be cacophonous.

Photo courtesy of Grant Nel

The Closing Scene – Sunset boat cruise:
Our boat cruise is filled with a myriad of encounters with creatures both large and small. A monitor lizard scavenges a Fish Eagle’s scraps; white-fronted bee-eaters hawk insects above our heads; hippos splash, cavort and yawn at our passing; buffaloes graze chest deep in the water; a giant crocodile basks in the late afternoon sun; and always, ever present, are elephants. They are drinking, feeding, bathing, trumpeting, rumbling, suckling, walking, and sparring. They carry out their daily existence without the least concern of our camera clicking and exclamations of wonder. It feels like it cannot possibly get better, until we turn a corner to reveal a scene that probably qualifies as a religious experience. The Sun, now a bright orange orb hanging low in the sky, provides a backdrop to a gathering of buffalo and elephants that must number in the hundreds. Their silhouettes are haloed by the ethereal light reflected in the mirror-like river. Our voices drop to that respectful whisper reserved for a great cathedral and no-one can wrench their eyes away. Sunset in Africa is a relatively quick affair, and I cannot help but think that it is a perfectly timed curtain fall to an astounding performance. Tomorrow the curtain will rise again, and although the script may change, the drama will remain the same.

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To learn more about our African Safari trip click here

September 2012

Don Wilson is Curator Emeritus of Mammals at the Smithsonian’s National Museum of Natural History and was director of the Smithsonian’s Biodiversity Programs for ten years. A distinguished mammalogist and an internationally recognized authority on bats, his work has taken him around the world conducting field work and research. He has led tours for Smithsonian Journeys to most of the world’s greatest natural history destinations from Antarctica to Africa.  Read his field notes from the trip below:

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An African Safari is one of the most exciting adventures offered by Smithsonian Journeys. I lead them regularly, but never get tired or bored. Every trip offers new and exciting views of animals, interesting people, and something to look forward to every single day. This September’s journey was no exception.

Photo courtesy of Don Wilson

We had a very nice, compatible group of about 20 people, and by our final stop at Royal Zambezi Lodge in Zambia, we were getting very good at identifying mammals and birds, and were becoming more comfortable with seeing large animals such as elephants and hippos up close and personal. Normally we do this from the safety and comfort of our safari vehicles, but we have the opportunity to do both walking and canoeing safaris at Royal Zambezi, and we had already had some exciting encounters with some elephants.

Photo courtesy of Don Wilson

On our final day, a familiar elephant with a recognizable tear in one ear showed up to wish us good-bye. As we were getting our coffee from the deck where we enjoyed our alfresco meals, the elephant drew closer and closer. Finally it was so close it could scoop the fallen leaves and nuts from the rain gutters on the lodge building. A few folks were still trying to get down to breakfast, and they had to delay their approach until the elephant, a young but quite large bull, had  enjoyed his fill.

Photo courtesy of Don Wilson

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To read more about our African Safari trip click here

Rita Sodha, a lecturer in the Department of Art History at the University of Baroda’s Faculty of Fine Arts, is an expert on Indian painting and contemporary art, holding degrees in both art history and fine arts.

Rita recently led a group of Smithsonian travelers in Northern India.

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Midway through our Mystical India journey, after our exciting stay at the tiger reserve in Ranthambhor, we set our sights on our next destination, the Dera Lake View Retreat in Kalakho. We were all looking forward to it, and the drive was picturesque, as we travelled through small hamlets and large stretches of green wheat fields.

We passed men, women, and children doing their morning chores, brushing their teeth with the neem tree twig, giving fodder to the cattle, and preparing breakfast in the open courtyard on little stoves made of clay and cow dung.  Older men and women were seen with their hookahs, as their daughters-in-law prepared breakfast. They all seemed busy but were excited to see our coach pass by, and they waved happily at us. Their laughter and energy were delightful.

We drove past a morning vegetable bazaar bustling with activity, and saw people driving their locally made vehicles, called jugads.  We also drove past a medieval fortress, perched on a hilltop, appearing formidable and recalling the bygone age of heroic stories, tragic deaths, poignant sacrifices, unheard valor, and romantic poetry.

Later on, we drove past a bigger village, where our enterprising tour director, Karni Singh, spotted a village movie theater.  In no time, we were all out of the coach and Karni was negotiating with the theater manager to screen a Bollywood song for our group. We all went about peeping into the projecting room and the private viewing boxes, and then we enjoyed an impromptu Bollywood song!

At around lunchtime, we reached our breathtaking retreat, Kalakho. Situated in the middle of farm lands and close to a monsoon lake, it is surrounded by mountains on all sides. We disembarked from our coach and were escorted in several jeeps to the beautifully set retreat. After a traditional welcome with marigold garlands and the tika (the red mark of vermillion applied on the forehead), we freshened up in our cozy cottages and went for lunch.

After a superb lunch, we enjoyed a henna session. Henna is traditionally used to decorate the palms and feet of Indian women during weddings or festivals.  Then it was time for a very special visit, to a nearby hamlet, on camelback. The camels and camel carts were assembled, and we proceeded to the hamlet through narrow tracks amidst the fields.

The hamlet comprised about ten to twelve houses, with courtyards and a row of adjoining rooms. The children had just returned from school and many of them were still in their uniforms. The families gave us a tour of their beautiful and fascinating village. We saw their homes, their outdoor kitchens, their grinding stones, and hearths, and enjoyed festive dancing and chatting.

After all the merry making, it was time to return to our retreat, where a local troupe had been invited to perform for us.  Our visit to the village offered us a warmth and familiarity that remained with us long after we departed.

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You can read more about our Mystical India tour here.

Hugh Agnew is a Professor of History and International Affairs at George Washington University. He has taught courses and published books and numerous articles about the Habsburg Empire, the Czech national identity, and Czech heritage and history.

This fall Hugh led a group of Smithsonian Journeys travelers on a tour of Old World Europe.

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A classic traveler’s dilemma: here you are in a lovely, historic, culture-filled place and you have only a limited amount of time to devote to activities.  Do you try to devour as many galleries, museums, and historic buildings as you possibly can, or do you take a little time to step off the treadmill and relax, perhaps in some way capturing an echo of how the locals relax when they are off the treadmill themselves?  Of course, in any major tourist center there are practically no places “untouched by tourism” because tourism is an essential part of the economies of such places.  Yet even now it is possible to experience moments where the impact of tourism is lightly-felt, if at all noticed.  That’s one of the things I like about Vienna.

Vienna is a major tourism hub, and it is also a very international city with institutions such as OPEC, the United Nations, and the European Union (among others) housing many offices and headquarters here. But it is also home to thousands of Austrians, and in their own ways they continue to live as Austrians and relax as Austrians.

The green lungs of the city, the famous Vienna Woods (Wienerwald), are one place where everyday Austrians like to go to relax. And thanks to Vienna’s world-class transportation system, park-goers simply hop on one of the several tram lines that run from the center of the city, ride it to the edge of town, and begin walking.

And once you’ve started walking, typically it isn’t long before you find yourself among vineyards – and if among vineyards, then how much farther is it to one of the informal Austrian wine garden restaurants?  In the villages that used to be outside the city, and which are now being swallowed up as its extended suburbs, the local winegrowers have had the right, since Emperor Joseph II confirmed it in 1784, to offer this year’s vintage for sale in their own establishments.  In the southern German dialects, of which Austrian German is a standardized version, the term heuer means “this year’s” – and so these institutions have come to be called “Heurige.” When the year’s vintage is ready to be released, the vintner typically hangs a bunch of pine twigs over the entrance to the courtyard or house to let everyone know that he is open (“hat ausg’steckt,” as the Viennese would say).

The Viennese microclimate seems to me (not an expert) to be kinder to white wine varieties. Rieslings and Austrian varietals, such as Grüner Veltliner and Müller Thurgauare, are becoming better known abroad.  Reds are typically the central European varieties such as Blaufränkisch (also known as Lemberger), St. Laurent, or a successful cross between the two: Zweigelt.

Austrians share the famous Heuriger locations with tourists by the busload, especially in centers like Grinzing, perhaps the best known of the winemaking former villages, or Beethoven’s summer retreat in Heiligenstadt.  Slightly further away, and therefore less crowded but still easily accessible from the city center, is Nussdorf. This is where I, and a few other travelers, went on this journey. Even though it was not the best weather for sitting in a Heuriger garden, we still enjoyed this year’s Gemischter Satz “gespritzt” with carbonated water.  Typically the new wines are also accompanied by a buffet of light dishes, with some institutions offering hot meals (including gluten free and vegan!).  We stayed with the classic snacks: a few spreads (Aufstriche) including the famous Liptauer cheese, a salad of salsify in a creamy sauce (Schwartzwurzel Salat), Austrian-style potato salad, and a wonderfully sour Viennese rye bread.  We ended the afternoon fortified for the evening’s cultural activities and in an overall mood that could only be described as “gemütlich.”

Classic Viennese Snacks- Smithsonian Journeys. Photo courtesy of Hugh Agnew

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Read more about our small group journey to Poland, Slovakia, Hungary, Austria, and the Czech Republic here.