Archive for the ‘Central America’ Category

Book: Columbus, The Four Voyages

Friday, October 21st, 2011

Cover image - Columbus - The Four Voyages.This week’s travel read is Columbus, The Four Voyages. Most of us remember Columbus’ famous expedition of 1492, but many of us have forgotten that Columbus returned to the Americas three more times.

In these later voyages, Columbus continued to try to prove that he could get to China, where he wanted to convert the people he met there to Christianity. These three later voyages, all to the Caribbean and nearby regions of the Atlantic, were more violent than his first and contribute to his controversial legacy.

Biographer Laurence Bergreen captures each voyage in rich detail, recreating these adventures and providing the context and perspective needed for each of us to draw our own understanding of what Columbus’ expeditions mean to the world at large.

If you’d like to sail some of the waters Columbus sailed, now’s a great time to book your adventure in the Caribbean with Smithsonian Journeys.

A Costa Rican Adventure

Wednesday, August 31st, 2011

Suzan Murray is the Chief Veterinarian and the Smithsonian National Zoo. She’s also a world-class Study Leader on our Smithsonian Journeys tours. Here, she shares a day in Costa Rica with Smithsonian Travelers, and with you.

The violet sabrewing hummingbird

The violet sabrewing hummingbird. Photo: Kate Desvenain

Today was our first full day in Costa Rica. The group had breakfast together and it gave us a chance to get to know each other. From our breakfast table we could see numerous brightly colored birds outside as we chatted and got to know each other. Our tour guide, Herman, has been working in Costa Rica for over 30 years. He is a warm, knowledgeable and friendly man and our group immediately took to him. We also immediately bonded with our driver, Marco, who not only was an incredibly safe driver, but personally took the time to help everyone on and off the vehicle every day. He also took a great liking to my personal traveling companion, Evan, my 10 year old son. Marco and Evan became fast friends on this day.

Our trip for the day was to visit a close by, beautiful volcano, which from the base appeared to be shrouded in clouds. As Herman explained, the weather in Costa Rica changes rapidly, and one minute it could be cloudy with poor visibility, particularly at higher altitudes, while the next minute there could b excellent visibility. The bus dropped us off just a short distance from the crater’s edge, but at the high altitude the short hike to the rim created an excellent way to get our hearts pumping. Herman showed us plants along the way and pointed out various biological and volcanic features. When we arrived at the rim, the clouds had moved in and we were not able to see the rim of the crater. Although we were somewhat disappointed, in the end, we all appreciated the beautiful walk and the early morning exercise. It was the perfect way to start our trip.

Our next adventure was a visit to a coffee farm. During this trip we learned everything you every wanted to know about coffee. We learned about the types of beans used (arrabica only in Costa Rica), how the plants are cared for, when the seeds are collected and how they are first separated into different grades based upon several factors, including size, we were able to observe the drying and roasting process, and the tour ended with a taste test and an opportunity to buy samples as souvenirs. Evan was able to take part in the coffee bean drying process while the rest of us were able to relax and taste the coffee samples. This was a big hit with the coffee drinkers in the group. The plantation also had a butterfly garden through which we walked prior to resuming our journey.

Click here for more on travel to Costa Rica and here for more about Costa Rica on the Journeys Blog.

Q&A on Small Ship Cruising

Saturday, July 16th, 2011

Nancy Blount is President of Blount Small Ship Adventures, one of our esteemed travel partners specializing in small ship cruising, talks with Smithsonian Journeys staff member MaryBeth Mullen about several cruises scheduled for 2012.  We look forward to welcoming you on a Smithsonian Small Ship Adventure in the near future.

Q.     Nancy, your family has been in the cruise business for a very long time.  You must have some pretty wonderful memories of time spent aboard your ships.  How many ships do you operate and how are they different from other ships in the marketplace?

Sailing towards shore in Belize.

Sailing towards shore in Belize.

A.     Our family has been in the cruise industry for 45 years but also in the shipbuilding/operating business since 1949…62 years! We have many fond memories of our family vacations onboard a variety of cruising vessels as well as a lot of summer time fun spent swordfishing with my Dad off of Block Island. We currently have three vessels in our fleet. Our vessels are built to enable our passengers to experience things you can’t on a big cruise ship.  Things like navigating narrow rivers and canals, or bow landing on remote beaches. Our amazing small ships are specially designed to take you closer to the places and people often out of reach.

Q.    What are some of the most popular destinations?

A.    This is a great question but the answer is also a moving target and changes with the seasons. Currently our more popular destinations include Belize, New Orleans to Chattanooga and Lake Michigan, all destinations that Smithsonian travelers can explore this coming year.

Q.     Can you describe the accommodations and amenities aboard your ships?  

A.     Blount ships have never stopped evolving.  Through the years, we’ve added many features and refurbished the décor. But one thing has stayed the same – a dedication to a casual cruising experience. There’s no white glove dining service, no formal attire, and no luxurious staterooms. But there is a 180-degree vista-view lounge —the ideal place to get to know your fellow passengers as glorious, scenic landscapes unfold before you. Go upstairs, and you’ll find the upper deck, the perfect place to catch a breathtaking view, or catch a few rays.

When it comes time for a good night’s sleep, our ships offer four categories of small-ship cruising cabins. Each feature individual air conditioning, which continuously brings fresh air into your room, day and night. Your room also features a private shower and washrooms, and a fresh, smoke-free environment. Add the refurbished staterooms onboard our Grande class ships and you get a casual, relaxing, welcoming place to end the day.

It’s all a part of what makes cruising on a Blount ship so amazing. The kind of innovations that make adventure possible, open up new places to exploration, and make your journey as comfortable as possible.

The Grand Mariner at port in Milwaukee.

The Grand Mariner at port in Milwaukee.

Q.     How are meals handled?  Do guests get to choose who they dine with?  What is the cuisine like?

A.    Single -sitting meals with an open seating policy allows you the freedom to meet many traveling companions. With a maximum of 96 passengers aboard, you can meet and dine with nearly everyone over the course of your trip.  Our chef-prepared meals are delicious, healthy, and often reflective of the region in which you are traveling.

Q.     Will there be Smithsonian study leaders and tour managers to handle logistics aboard each cruise?

A.     Yes, there will be Smithsonian study leader and a Blount Small Ship Adventures Cruise Director onboard to handle logistics aboard each cruise.

Q.     On average, how many ports are visited throughout a cruise?  Essentially, how active are these trips? 

A.     There is no “average” number of ports visited on a cruise as “ports” visited are determined by length of itinerary and distance traveled.  We have a variety of activities available for our passengers to participate in and our passengers can pick all or none depending on what level of activity appeals to them.  There are rental bikes and kayaks onboard most cruises; other programming options may include photography workshops as well as naturalists and lecturers. On our Caribbean itineraries we also have snorkeling, swimming and the glass bottom boat.

Q.     Where are you traveling this year?  Do you have a favorite destination?

A.     I will be traveling to the Caribbean this winter on our Caribbean Spectacular: St. Maarten to Antigua.  Last year it was the Virgin Islands and the year before Belize! I try to get aboard different itineraries every year but I have to admit that one of my absolute favorites is the Best of Belize and the Barrier Reef.  I am an avid snorkeler and the Barrier Reef provides superb snorkeling…the itinerary is also a wonderful mix of water sports (snorkeling, swimming, kayaking) as well as a splash of cultural mixed in. I always learn something new on the trips to the Mayan ruins of Quirigua in Guatemala as well as Xunantunich and the fabulous Belize Zoo.

Our small ship expeditions are on sale now. Click for more information. 

Highlights of Costa Rica

Tuesday, June 28th, 2011

Smithsonian Study Leader James Karr is the Director of the Institute for Environmental Studies at the University of Washington. He specializes in tropical ecology, ornithology, and environmental policy and has done extensive field work in Central and South America. Here, he shares some thoughts on his recent travel through Costa Rica with Smithsonian travelers.

Costa Rica's pristine beach

Costa Rica's pristine beach

As study leader on two trips to Costa Rica with Smithsonian Journeys in March-April of this year, I spent time in one of the most delightful and easily accessible parts of the tropical world. At the end of each trip, I asked each member of the group to name three of the trip’s most memorable experiences. Whenever I do this I am impressed by the common themes that emerge, as well as each person’s unique perspectives.

Everyone’s highlights centered on Costa Rica’s well-deserved reputation as a nature tourism destination. People recalled walking in the “awesome diversity” of cloud forest, especially the hanging bridges that take one into and above the forest canopy. They talked about peering into the fuming crater of the Poas Volcano or seeing the smoking cone of the Arenal Volcano at sunrise and sunset. Others were delighted to see legendary birds such as the jewel-like resplendent quetzal, scarlet macaws, and magnificent frigatebirds. During a boat trip along the Tempisque River, we saw herons, egrets, crocodiles, monkeys, and even a large boa in a tree. Daily nature walks on the grounds of our hotels allowed us to see numerous orchids and other flowers as well as tropical butterflies and birds. On top of everything, we feasted on a wide diversity of tropical fruits and delicious local dishes.

The violet sabrewing hummingbird.

The violet sabrewing hummingbird.

Many in our groups appreciated the warmth of the Costa Rican people and the chance to learn about growing and processing coffee before it reaches our coffee cups. Others were delighted to learn about the connections among sugar cane, molasses, and rum; the cultivation of pineapple; vanilla from an orchid; and the odd fruit that provides cashews. We learned about making (and also tasted) a wine from palms and visited a factory that makes delicate, beautiful wood products. We also visited the shop of a local artisan where he creates unique masks and bigger than life-size costumes for local parades and other celebrations.

Others were struck by the geological and topographic diversity of Costa Rica from high mountains to the Pacific Ocean beaches. Some took the opportunity to sit and read in the tropical garden outside their room while others delighted in the Pacific coastline, where they walked the beach or swam or snorkeled in warm ocean waters. Still others had the thrill of a lifetime gliding on ziplines in the cloud forest at Monteverde.

People join Smithsonian Journeys expeditions with their own unique blend of expectations and even fears about what they will encounter. Many have personal bucket lists. But all seemed to find revisiting the trip by recalling there top three memorable events a refreshing reminder of trip experiences. Some even noted that they would change their list as a result of our discussion, because it reminded them of things that hadn’t come to mind as they wrote their top three.

Click herefor more on James Karr and traveling with him, and here for more on travel to Costa Rica.

What do you love about travel? Please share.

A Visit to Tikal

Thursday, June 2nd, 2011

Study Leader Dr. Andrew R. Wyatt is a Visiting Assistant Professor at the University of Illinois at Chicago. Currently he is working at Lake Mendoza in western Guatemala, studying the lives of the ancient Maya living in the far hinterlands of Maya society. Here, he shares a bit of Guatemala’s history and his reflections on a recent trip to Guatemala with Smithsonian travelers.

The city of Tikal, Guatemala. Photo: Daniel Loncarevic

The city of Tikal, Guatemala. Photo: Daniel Loncarevic

In the 8th Century A.D. the ruler of Tikal, Jasaw Chan K’awiil, embarked on a massive building campaign resulting in the construction of two of the largest temples at the site, a large palace and residential compound, and much of the grand architecture that awaits visitors at the central plaza at Tikal. These stone temples would have been covered with a fine plaster made of limestone and painted a brilliant red, blue, and yellow, while the surrounding plazas would have gleamed a brilliant white. Temple 1, the most imposing structure in this central plaza and the eventual tomb of Jasaw Chan K’awiil, was topped by a large limestone and plaster image of the king himself looking down upon the assembled populace. At its peak, the population of Tikal would have exceeded 100,000 souls and the city itself would have been a colorful oasis in the unrelenting green of the Petén, itself dotted with small farms to the distant horizon.

Our group walked the 2 kilometers from the entrance of the Tikal National Park in Guatemala to the central plaza along the same route that ancient travelers and visitors might have arrived when Tikal was a thriving urban center over 1,000 years ago. Now, rather than temples, houses, and gardens greeting the visitor, the path was lined with mahogany trees, breadnut trees, and chicle trees, the sap of which is still used to manufacture chewing gum. Howler monkeys growled in the distance, and the calls of chachalacas and motmot birds echoed through the high branches. Our guide pointed out a line of leaf-cutter ants carrying small leaf pieces back to their nest to later be used to grow a fungus that is the ant’s main food. Although less than ¼ inch in size, the relentless march of the ants created a visible trail that emerged from the dense underbrush on one side of the trail and back into the jungle on the other.

Drawing closer to the main plaza, more and larger temples and structures came into view as we approached the religious, political, and economic center of the site. Faces of gods gazed out from the limestone walls of the temples, moss-covered and silent. Some of the temples hinted at an early construction of the site. Although much of the visible construction at Tikal was from the 8th and 9th centuries, numerous temples appeared to have been built in the 4th and 5th centuries when the massive site of Teotihuacan, over 500 miles to the west in central Mexico, exerted its influence. In fact, settlement at Tikal began in the first millennium B.C. when small groups of farmers settled on the edges of the nearby swamps. The city grew to its height in the first millennium A.D., only to be abruptly depopulated after A.D. 900. Small groups of settlers continued to occupy the site over the years, including Lacandon Maya villages and chiclero camps, the temporary encampments of the men who harvested the chicle from ancient trees to make chewing gum. Even today, Maya still come to Tikal to take part in rituals hearkening back thousands of years.

The imposing 154 foot high Temple 1 appeared suddenly in our view as we rounded a bend in the forest; even the largest structures often materialize unexpectedly as the dense forest obscures many of the ancient remains until you are nearly right upon them. As we rounded the corner of the temple we emerged into the large central plaza, flanked on the east and west with pyramid shaped temples and on the north and south with the houses and governmental offices of the kings, queens, nobility, and priests. Now, rather than brilliantly painted plaster, the grey limestone walls, heavy with age, seemed to breathe with history.

In the year A.D. 692, Jasaw Chan K’awiil presided over a ritual marking the end of a k’atun, a roughly 20 year period of time that held great importance for the ancient Maya, similar in many ways to a decade in our calendar. At the completion of this and other k’atuns, temples were constructed and rituals were enacted to mark the end of the previous period as well as welcome the upcoming k’atun. Jasaw Chan K’awiil likely ascended the steps of these very temples, resplendent in his quetzal feather headdress and kingly garb, to perform sacrifices to the deities dwelling in the heavens.

We could only imagine what occurred here 1200 years ago. As it was, we witnessed a different kind of Tikal than the people who lived here in the past. Our Tikal was populated only by the ghosts of the past and visitors from the present, and bustling activity of an urban center was replaced by the flora and fauna of the ever-encroaching rainforest.

What do you think of Tikal? Click here to learn more about traveling to Guatemala with Smithsonian.